Showing posts with label Beijing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Beijing. Show all posts

January 13, 2009

Beijing Nights

A while back I meant to write a post about the night life on our street. It's a bustling place as soon as the lights go on and people come out of doors in search of a cheap and easy meal. All up and down the street vendors wheel their carts and three-wheeled bikes along the curb and open up shop, patching in to the electrical system to light their incandescent bulbs. Even as the weather gets chillier, they're still out there. There are big barrel ovens with baking sweet potatoes and small coal stoves heat big woks full of something that looks like black stones in which chestnuts are roasted. Other vendors have glass-faced shelf-boxes in which "kabobs" of fruit are laid, having been drizzled or dipped in a sugar syrup so they're gleaming and colorful.

The big draw are the carts that open up into trays of bubbling soup. Vegetables and meats are strung on kabob sticks and then customers come and choose what they want to set into the boiling, spicy soup. When they're cooked, you just pull it out and eat it.

We tried it but it was spicier than the girls liked, so it's not something we've done since, though we have gone out just to walk through the crowd and get a festive feeling.

December 12, 2008

the benefits of smog

It makes for a pretty sunrise.






but I guess the benefit is outweighed by this (as seen from above).


October 31, 2008

last of the October updates

Devin and Merlin have a few things they've been meaning to post, delayed for no good reason other than that it takes some coordination to get kids, computer, and digital photos in the same place at the same time with a corresponding interest on the said kids' parts to actually sit down and write something. So, I'm not sure if we'll get any other posts up today, but hopefully we can wrap up posts of October's activities in the next few days.

In the meantime, I'll just throw on a few random pictures, just for fun and general audience edification.

Here's Merlin, working on some Chinese calligraphy, with Dan in the background. This was taken during Dan's students' cultural activity. In the future we may join them for papercutting, stone stamp carving and other language/art activities.We're welcoming Julie (obviously her English name, as most of you wouldn't be able to pronounce her Chinese name) as our new Chinese language instructor. She's a grad student at CUN, is also a tutor for Dan's students, and has become the best thing about living in Beijing. She's tons of fun and really good at getting us all to speak Chinese (her English is good too, so she can provide translation when we're stuck on a word). You'll be seeing her picture more often because we like to go on field trips with her. This semester's students have instituted a new tradition every time we eat out together: ku gua, or bitter melon, is the one dish that HAS to show up on the table, regardless of what kind of ethnic cuisine we're focusing on. Ku gua lives up to its name - it's phenomenally bitter, but oddly satisfying. A little bit goes a long way.
Sometimes there are fantastic things here, like a clop clopping coming up behind you, through the traffic,
and a new-found gustatory treasure: Jian bing - roughly a Chinese crepe, though it's a very wild cousin to the familiar French style. Here's one version, but just watch the video and you'll get a good idea of what's involved: batter, egg, cilantro, green onion, a jiang (a sauce, probably made of fermented soybeans and salt and other things, like a chunky miso), za cai (a salted/pickled vegetable), lettuce, a crispy fried sheet of something (tofu maybe, as per the website linked to above, though it looks like some vendors make it with youtiao, a type of fried dough/cruller thing), and then it's all wrapped up and delivered hot. I think this is the first time I've eaten a food created with a putty knife.



(hmm, maybe the video doesn't work? I'll keep trying...)

October 03, 2008

Our Street

Sometimes I realize I've gotten used to things which would be considered kind of abnormal back in the U.S.

For example, take the sidewalk on our street. Ok, I admit, I still complain about it so that means I'm not really used to it, but it's just a regular thing here - the fact that both trees and poles take up most of the room on the sidewalk and though it's not apparent in this picture, a majority of pedestrians actually walk in the street. If you are walking with another person, you can't actually walk abreast on our sidewalk, someone always has to be dodging obstacles. Also, be sure to watch out for the two inch bolts sticking out of the sidewalk (they're anchors that used to go with other poles that have since been removed), the missing bricks, or the open manhole.

Oh and the wires, look out for those, too.

I like the honesty of this sign: Caution, pedestrians running for their lives!


?


And the randomness of signs here. I don't think it has anything to do with the Chinese given here.
Ok, I take it back, I haven't gotten used to it all - I still find it as boggling and humorous as ever.

September 30, 2008

touristing 1.3

The day we went to all these places I also took the medium format camera. I'm not as productive as Dan and I only shot one roll (if even that much) and since he takes film in when he's amassed a larger amount, I'll have to wait until there's more to develop before I get to see how they turned out.
The story behind this place (or one of the stories anyway) is that the man who had it built worked as a high-ranking government official. Somehow he managed to steal jewels from the palace. He'd build them into the walls of his mansion (and this place is like a small village, it's huge and complex and beyond what we'd consider a mansion). Eventually he amassed so much wealth that he actually had more than the emperor. He didn't give someone the cut they were due, though, and he got ratted out. Before losing his head, he and his family sure lived well.

I kept trying to get a picture of these pedicabs when streams of them would come rolling down the street, but I wasn't fast enough and missed it each time. Here they are parked, though, when they're much easier to catch.
This kind of thing cracks us up. A fake topiary to hide the spotlight...


Another pavilion for the corrupt official. Not bad!

touristing 1.2

The second place we visited that day was the Temple of Heaven. I liked this much more than the Forbidden City - it actually has trees! The Forbidden City didn't have trees except in one small garden area, because they didn't want there to be opportunities for assassins to hide behind trees. It makes the complex rather blank and scorching when it's hot. The Temple of Heaven, though, has trees all over, and it's quite large. There's a lot to explore. I've heard that in the mornings lots of people are there, doing tai chi and playing instruments, kind of like Zizhuyuan, near us.









touristing 1.1

Dan's students arrived earlier in the month and they're the nicest bunch of college students - they're fun to hang out with and we've had the chance to accompany them on a few sightseeing trips. These pictures are from a day we spent at The Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square, The Temple of Heaven, and one other place whose name none of us could remember, so we just started calling it The Corrupt Official's Mansion (which, in essence, is what it was back in the Qing Dynasty).

Devin carried around the video camera and was quite happy to be the official videographer.

I discovered the extent of foraging in Beijing: some potted pomegranates. They're just turning red, d'you think I'd get in trouble with the Emperor's people if I stole one?
Gotta love what's lost and gained in translation (which reminds me, I have more of these funny things to post later).
I tend to focus on the out-of-place, the misfits and wild-hearts breaking through the concrete. I particularly like plants growing on buildings... they remind of me of who always wins in the end.I'll keep going through the photos we took (it's been a few weeks already, sorry!) and let you see what we've been up to.

September 10, 2008

one really long noodle





(trying out Blogger's video function - let me know what you think, compared to the YouTube versions I've posted before)

September 07, 2008

Zi Zhu Yuan

We have something really cool in our neighborhood!

About two blocks to the south we have access to the canal that the Emperor used to use as his thoroughfare to the Summer Palace.

Jabeh (Dan's assistant) first introduced it to us in July after a trip to the Beijing Zoo. There's a "Pleasure Boat" from the Zoo to the Summer Palace, which we took; but we got off halfway and walked the few blocks home.
Formerly, when the Imperial Entourage would travel to the Summer Palace it would take something like two weeks (being carried by sedan), but the canal shortened the trip significantly.
Now, there's a park that encompasses the length of the canal and which coalesces right in our neighborhood.
There's a lake with paddle boats, some fishing ponds, lots of twisty walkways through bamboo groves and pavilions all about where people gather to practice traditional Chinese opera songs, play flutes or stringed instruments (erhu), or dance. Hmm... maybe this would cure our bubble problem, if we started hanging out at the park to learn one of these things (I don't see me learning traditional Chinese opera, but maybe the weird little instrument that's a cross between a gourd and a flute would do the trick).

Just within the last year the city made the park admission free, so we should go over there a lot more than we do.






oops I forgot to mention that Zi Zhu Yuan literally translates as Purple Bamboo Park, though I think the variety being referenced is actually called Black Bamboo.